There and back again, a flight's tale

Flights are expensive

Who'd have thunk?
I'm currently looking for flights to Atlanta, Georgia.  From my rough googling so far, it seems that flights to New York plus accommodation in New York plus getting south are about the same as just flying to Atlanta on a single ticket.  So I'm looking for flights that will actually let me take baggage with me.  This is, as it turns out, rather pricey.
Getting back isn't much better.  And unfortunately, Bangor in Maine doesn't do international flights so that's a spot of bother too.  Hopefully I'll be able to update soon when and where to the flights will be.

What will I do afterwards?

What will I do after this silly, crazy hike?

Well, I'll still have my visa for another few years soooo....  If I get the taste for this sort of nonsense I could go back for another one!  There's the PCT and CDT to do, too, after all.  And numerous other long hikes.

But in the more recent term than those, I would also like to go on hikes with my lovely girlfriend at some point - perhaps we could do the West Highland Way together in Scotland, or the Camino de Santiago in Spain and France.

There are also oodles of long trails criss-crossing through Europe now, and the old Grande Randonnée paths in France, Spain, Portugal, and the Netherlands.

All of those could prove very fun to do, but the various political situations at the moment might limit some of these....

Of course, if I'm being sensible I should also try to sell myself to the Company Overlord.  or go for a PhD.  Both are equally unappealing at the moment; but this is a choice and a problem for Future Chris.

Present-Day Chris only has to worry about hiking.  Hiking fun.

Training

So what am I doing to get fit for the trail?

Not much, you might think.  I'm not going on any hikes before then, I'm not even going on many day hikes.  What I am doing though is going to the gym.  My thinking is each step is sort of like a lunge, only not a very deep one; and strengthening my back (and other muscles) will make carrying a (hopefully-not-so) heavy backpack easier.
There's actually some good thinking behind this and not just me trying to convince myself.  Strengthening my muscles does mean I'll be able to do the harder parts of hiking better than otherwise.  I've also lost quite a lot of weight (more than 10kg!) since this time last year and am quite possibly in the best shape I've ever been in.  I'm hoping to hit the trail in April in great shape.  The average times for a through hike is somewhere between 5 to 7 months, hopefully be going into it already fit I'll be able to be in that lower portion if I want to or be able to easily cruise through for a 6 month hike.
Wish me luck!

Confidence

A question I've had from a lot of people is "Why do you think you'll manage it?" and, truth be told, I'm not actually sure I can manage it.  But I'll give a jolly good go at it.  I've read about and listened to people about and researched the trail and as far as I can see it's absolutely awful, difficult and no one should do it.

...and yet...

People do.  I'll try to.

So why do I think I have a chance?
Well, I'm fairly young and fit so that's a bonus but that doesn't guarantee anything.  I've previous hiking experience, though obviously nothing this long.  The longest I've been backpacking or hiking for is nearly three weeks in Greenland, but that isn't really the same deal anyway as we often made basecamps and rarely had to haul everything from A to B. Over summer I attempted the West Highland Way, but before I could finish was poisoned! caught Noro virus.  It's an unpleasant, disgusting disease that I'll let other people research; and only ended that attempt because I was on a strict schedule.  The AT will be much more flexible about being delayed a day or two by an icky diseases, that I hopefully won't catch again.

All of that adds up to not the best odds in the world, but certainly not the worst.  I could do some maths, but statistics are the work of the devil; instead I'll just guess with blind confidence that I'm somewhere on the good side of the bell-curve for chance to succeed.  And with that I'll give the hike a go!

What's the worst that could possibly happen?








That said..
There are some rules and tricks to make it easier, but the only thing hiking such a long trail can be compared to is... hiking one of the many other long trails.  There are quite few of them, I've linked the other two that comprise the Triple Crown Of America, which is definitely not something I also want to do in the future nope, and the European Long-distance Paths; but there are many others.
The most common tip I've come across is 'Don't quit on a bad day'.  Don't decide to stop because the weather is miserable, it's raining, everything's wet and nothing is comfortable.  Only quit on a good day so you know that you want to quit, not just that you want out of the cold.
Another common tip is to think of it not as one impossibly long hike.  You go back to town once every few days to resupply, so maybe think of it as lots of smaller hikes for a week or so.  That you just do over and over and over and over and over and over [....] and over.

Why am I taking a hammock?

 As i've said before, I'm taking a hammock.
But why?

There are a few reasons.  Firstly, the floor is dirty.  It can also be wet.  Worst of all it can be both.  I'll be hiking for, hopefully, several months through wind and rain.  The ground will, at times, be absolutely horrible; it might be difficult to set a tent up or the tent itself might get washed out or soaked even with a waterproof bottom.  Instead I'll comfortably hang above the dirty, wet, muddy floor.  This also means I don't have to worry about finding a flat spot devoid of rocks and roots, that I'd otherwise hunt for to lay down on.  Instead I just need any two trees the right distance apart and I'll be in a frikking huge wood.  There's a lot of trees.  I'll actually have an easier time setting up my hammock than I will a tent.

There are some drawbacks though....
Weight is maybe one of them, maybe not.  We'll discuss that later on.  The drawbacks I will mention right now though are it can be more expensive or harder to get warm.  Instead of a rollmat and thermarest, plus a sleeping bag, I'll be taking two very expensive (very fluffy) down quilts.  One goes over and one goes under.

So this is a rather unconventional approach to camping but it isn't unknown anymore!  And with the some great hammock resources online (like Hammockforums and the hammock subreddits), and on youtube (looking at you, Shug); there's a lot of help in working out how to tackle this less conventional camping.

One last issue is that some people don't like the lack of structure.  Not counting my tarp, I won't have walls.  Even with my tarp, there's a lot to flap around in the wind unless I really cinch everything in tight.  Subjectively some people might feel a little less secure in a hammock set-up.

What's about the ground though?
The ground is the default for a reason.  It's the traditional method of camping and there are tonnes of options for everything you need on the ground.  Subjectively it can feel more structurally sound and that can be beneficial for peace of mind.  I'm not too much of a fan of this for my hike, as it does give me fewer options on where I could camp but it won't be hard to pick up a tent whilst I'm out there if I were to change my mind.

But let's talk about weight. 
Ground systems are lighter.  But....  These very light ground options might be sacrificing a lot.  They're often thin, maybe missing walls, require hiking poles to use, and so on.  Some of the lightest options are barely recognisable as tents.  My tent is heavier than my hammock; but mine isn't the lightest of tents, though my hammock isn't the lightest either.  For me, the extra weight reduction from the ground systems isn't worth it compared to the benefits of being in the air.

Boots vs trail runners

A common debate amongst hiker nowadays is what type of footwear to take.  The traditional boot still has a lot of support, but there are growing factions championing lighter options.   The main competition for the trusty boot are trail runners.  These are much lighter, less durable, and More breathable but often not waterproof.  They also have less ankle support, although that varies from boot to boot as well.  Some people go even further and argue for less sturdy shoes or even barefoot(!), but I've no experience with that so I won't talk about it.

The main arguments for trail runners are generally about weight.  They are much, much lighter than boots.  And there's the saying that a pound on your feet is worth two on your back.  The argument goes that  these lighter shoes are thus easier to hike in because of the weight but also how breathable they are.  There's a far smaller chance of one's feet over heating.  The lack of support and low durability are also sometimes presented as advantages.  They don't need to be broken in as much as boots, if at all, and help develop strong ankles.  I'm a little sceptical about that last part, but not needing to be broken in is definitely a plus - especially as they're likely to be replaced more often.  Trail runners will be replaced maybe twice as often as boots.  As to how waterproof they aren't, people often say that the feet are going to get wet anyway - especially if rivers needed to be waded.  I'm not entirely convinced by that, especially here in Britain.  I've found every pair I've owned to be very comfortable, with no downside for short hikes.  But I wouldn't want to take them for more than a couple of days.

Boots are the traditional mainstay of hikers.  Sometimes big and clunky, sometimes less so, they provide excellent grip and support, with waterproof options and will last a while.  I love mine, and I think they're very comfortable as is.  I'm sure everyone already knows the benefits of boots, and I personally don't see a need to swap them for something else. 

NoBo or SoBo

What do NoBo or SoBo even mean?  And what about GaMe or MeGa?
These are actually fairly simple concepts, they're all just acronyms that say which direction people are hiking in.  Northbound or Southbound are what they sound like, the other two are the start or ending state: Gerogia to Maine or vice versa.  What's the fuss about then, it's the same trail after all?
Well, it is but they have slightly different challenges.  The most common and perhaps traditional direction is starting at Georgia - and this is what I plan to do - and ending in Maine.
Common wisdom has it that this way is 'easier', the hike starts off nice and simple and by the time you get to the hard stuff, you've done a lot of hiking and can breeze through it.  The scary White Mountains are far away, the mud of Vermont is far away, and the boot-eating rocks of Pennsylvania is far away.
Northbound also has much more of a 'hiker bubble'.  Lots of people start around the same time starting from the same area, which means it's easy to find hiking buddies though it can be avoided if people really want to be alone.  The camaraderie is often touted as being part of the experience, and you can easily pick up a 'Tramily' or 'Trail Family' - a group of people you hike because your hiking plans all line up near enough.  If you're there for the social experience, Northbound is the way to go.
Bill Bryson went this way (until he gave up).
I think he did better in the film. (Which was great by the way.  It has a brilliant soundtrack.)

Southbound has its own perks too.  It's perhaps more environmentally friendly as there are less people in the area ta once, so the trail isn't worn as badly.  Some people would rather do the hard bits first so that the easier bits are for when you're exhausted, but - as the saying goes - your mileage may vary.  Southbound also doesn't have a seasonal time limit.  Baxter State Park, the end point of a northbound hike, will be shut for winter by the 15th of October.  A slow northbound hiker might end up missing out on their thruhike because of seasonal weather, but a southbounder can keep hiking into winter and out the other side to spring if they really want.  Arguable, southbounders get a nicer time with the weather.  Starting in Georgia can be unpleasantly cold from March all the way through April.  Snow isn't unheard of.  And then you're against the clock to get to Baxter State Park before winter gets there.  Meanwhile starting in Maine and heading south lets you start after the snows and chills have gone, and aim to finish in Autumn before the next set of chilly weather.
The film Southbounders is about a few people going this way.  It was also great and has a fairly catchy song too.

Gear List Part 4: Everything Else

A lot of bits and pieces to cover that don't all fit into nice neat categories.  The most important of which is perhaps my water system.  I'll be taking a 4L Platypus Gravityworks filter.  It works really quickly and easily.  It can also filter directly into a water bladder.  I think I'll be taking my 2L Osprey bladder but it might get ditched along the way, and will be supplemented by the odd water bottle.  For backup, I can boil water; but I will also probably take a few droplets of bleach or similar - which can be used to clean the Platypus as needed.  I also have a Sawyer Squeeze Mini.  In general, most people recommend just getting the normal size instead of the mini but it might be worthwhile to have a back-up filter.

To boil my water I of course need a cooker.  I have the Primus Omnilite.  By changing the nozzle to one of three different sizes, I can burn just about anything liquid or gas.  For preference I'll either burn gas for the cleanest and easier burning but  potentially clunky fuel storage; or the cleanest liquid I fuel I can get as I go along.  With gas, one canister is pretty easy to take with me; but if it runs low I need to take a second and that starts getting bulky.  There are also concerns with just how recyclable those canisters are anyway.  Liquid is dirtier - how dirty exactly depends on the liquid - to burn but the recycling is very easy; and I can easily see how much or how little fuel I have.  It'll be a tough choice but not one I have to make just yet.  Most people go with gas though.

For when I've finished with my food, I'm packing the Deuce Of Spades.  It's a very lightweight trowel - coming n at 17g - that's still rather durable.  It isn't the most comfortable to hold in the hand but it is very light and much easier to dig catholes with than using my hiking poles or a random stick I find on the ground.  Easily worth the weight.

About those hiking poles then.  Leki mico vario carbon are one of the lightest set of poles on the market.  When I bought them, they were the second lightest collapsible option.  A foam grip keeps them from getting slick and icky with sweat.  Carbon makes them incredibly lightweight and pretty durable in compression terms.  I have heard horror stories at lateral forces snapping them like twigs though....  I could go for even lighter poles if I had non-adjustable ones, but those are a nightmare to get from A to B.  Besides, sometimes I want them a little shorter or a little longer for long uphills and downhills.

What else is there?
Footware.
So this is an important one and I've been saving it for last for a reason.  Sometimes shoes / boots are counted in the Big Three/Four with good reason.  A lot of thruhikers these days are opting for lightweight, low durability, quick drying trail runners.  I may yet join those ranks, but for now I am sticking with the tried and true pair of trusty boots.  They protect my feet, give my ankles support, look cool, and crush things unde-  give me good grip in poor conditions like snow and mud.  My current pair are Lowa Renegade GTX Mid Boots.  They're not the stiffest, they're not the most flexible, they're not the most anything.  They're a very nice happy all rounder.  I've had my pair for a while and they're still holding true, but I don't expect them to last me the whole trail.  I don't know if they'll even get me half way.  That's to be expected, most people go through two or three pairs at least, as far as I can tell.  As I ramble further and further through the mountains I might swap them out for something different, but for now they're my very second-favourite pair of boots.

My first-favourite are an older pair of Scarpa Manta boots that I've a sentimental attachment for - they're from my first proper hike abroad; but they're far too firm, too big and too clunky for this trail. 

Gear List Part 3:  Clothes

So clothes.  Kind of important (except for Hike Naked Day).  I'll be including water proofs and things like that here too.  Let's start form the bottom layer and work outwards.

Base Layer
Merino wool, I wear a lot of it. ,For those that don't know, merino wool is magic.  It keeps hot stuff hot and cool stuff cool.  It dries quickly, it offers immense breathability, but has no wind or water protection at all.  It's a great base layer.  I've two long-sleeve and two short-sleeve merino wool tops from Rab.  Some generic merino wool underwear from Amazon, and a pair of merino wool long-johns.  Seeing a pattern here?


That said, as my short-sleeves can show, wool - especially merino wool - isn't the most durable in thin layers.  The tops have started getting a little thread-bare on the shoulders from casual every day use and the odd hike over the past year.  They might get replaced eventually but they still work so they're hanging around for now.

Trousers wise I'll be using my old standard of North Face hiking trousers, preferably the convertible ones so I can turn them into shorts when it gets hot. There's not much to say here.  They do the job with a bit of water resistance and wind resistance but not enough to keep my dry and warm on a very wet and windy day.

On my feet, guess what?  More merino wool!  Bridgedale have some lovely merino wool sock liners, over which I'll put on their lightweight hiking socks.  The heavy variety are too much for my tastes.  The mediums are alright but a bit thick for hot or wet days, especially if I have the liners on as well.  I'm reasonable happy with liners and lightweight in the worst weather, and very happy in hot weather.

Thermal Layer
Arc'teryx has my new favourite fluffy coat.  The Atom LT Jacket is nice and warm, rather fluffy and cuddly and packs down nicely.  It gives a bit of protection against the rain, but is mostly there to keep me warm.  It doesn't have a hood though, so I'll be taking a merino wool buff for my neck, head or anywhere else that gets cold.  I may also take a generic lightweight pull-on jumper with me for that extra bit of warmth.

Shell Layer
There's a few things that go into this layer but not all of them need to be worn all the time.  I'll often wear my hat, but rarely wear my gaiters.  Let's start from the bottom. 

Rap Hispar Gaiters keep my ankles and calves dry and make sure water doesn't get into my boots.  They're a bit hot and a bit bulky though, so as Winter turns into Spring and then into Summer, I'll probably ship these home if I take them at all.  If I swap to trail runners, I might replace these gaiters with some lightweight fabric ones to keep dirt and rocks out.

On my torso, Arc'teryx again with the Beta AR Jacket.  I was incredibly lucky to find one doubly discounted in Cotswold a few weeks ago.  It's amazing, but it is a little big for me in the large size.  It's very waterproof, covers everything from the waist up - with a huge hood.  It doesn't impact my movement at all, and can be opened up all over the place for breathability and so forth.  It's a really good jacket, but with a high price normally.  The exceptionally large hood is meant to be able to go over helmets for aplinists, caving, skiing, or so forth.  For me though, it can go over my hat.

Most people have baseball caps or similar.  Not me.  I'm going with a wide-brimmed hat so I can pretend to be Indiana Jones.  Tilley makes the best fabric hats.  The hemp ones are waterproof, breathable, and windproof.  They also float and are very durable.  My old hemp hat got a tear in it after nearly ten years and Tilley replaced it with a brand new one for free, all I had to do was pay to send it to them.  I've also got a slightly lighter cotton one with a bit more airflow but a bit less waterproof.  I'd rather take the hemp one, but the USA can be a little funny about hemp sometimes or so I hear.

Gear List Part 2: The Big Three

So.  The big three.
Traditionally, the three heaviest and perhaps most important items are the backpack itself, the sleeping system and the shelter.  Most people use a tent of some form and a sleeping bag.  I am not most people.

Sleeping/Shelter Systems
I shall be using a hammock camping system.  I have the Warbonnet Blackbird XLC, which is a lovely 11' long hammock, with a gear shelf and footbox; which makes it a little on the heavier side or so I hear.  Why though?  Well, I don't want to sleep on the ground.  There are bugs and creepy crawlies and stuff.  Seriously though, it means I won't need to look for flat, clear spaces to sleep and instead I just need two trees.  I'll be walking in the woods, there are plenty of trees.  The hammock itself won't keep me dry though, so - again from Warbonnet - I have the Superfly tarp.  It's a huge, but lightweight, tarp that can keep the wind and rain off me from all directions.  To stay warm, I'll be making use of the Enlightened Equipment Revelation and Revolt.  Both customised for the best  warmth and weight, for me.  The Revolt hangs under the hammock and hugs it from below to prevent me from losing heat there.  The Revelation goes in the hammock with me, and keeps me toasty warm.  If these are too hot at any point, I can send them home and replace them with Warbonnet's Wookie unerquilt, which is only torso length, and with my Rab Neutrino 200 which is a wonderfully light but not quite so warm option.  All of those are down, not synthetic insulation; so I have to be extra careful about keeping them dry.
So that's my sleeping and shelter system all in one nice bundle.  Onto my backpack.


Backpacks
I simply adore the Osprey range of backpacks.  I have too many four.  The Daylite XL, the Talon 44, the Talon 33 and the Aether 70. No prizes for which I'll be hiking with.

I'll of course be hiking with the Daylite XL Aether 70.  It's a little larger than what's necessary, and isn't the most recommended and I bought it before finalising my gear....  But!  I have been using an Aether for my longer hikes for almost a decade - since Year 10 way too many years ago.  I'm on my third version of it; the first got replaced for a defect after two years of use and I upgraded to the newest version for the AntiGravity system this year.  Normally, it is recommended to choose what gear to use before choosing what bag to pack it into to avoid buying things to fill the bag.  I knew though that I'd be using my favourite backpack for this hike before hand, and it is hard to run out of space in it so I can buy whatever I need.  Not whatever I want, though, if I am to remain lightweight.

The version I have comes with ways to stow trekking poles whilst on the go, which is nice but not very useful in my opinion.  Similarly it has a front J-zip  access panel.  I have never found those to be necessary, and only really use it to adjust the separator in the bottom of the bag.  Amongst the useful features I've found so far are the slightly more durable bottom and side pouches - I had torn holes in my very first Aether.  As with pretty much all Osprey backpacks, it has wonderful integration for water bladders, which I am toying with using.  The Osprey brand water bladders are especially nice but any water bladder works well too.  More on those in another post.

Like a lot of modern backpacks, the Aether 70 has a top access and bottom access, with a removable panel in the middle to divide it into two compartments.  I think I shall store my hammock, tarp and all things needed to set them up, in the bottom section - except for the quilts.  The hammock and tarp have their own drybags, whilst the suspension can get wet without much issue.  The top section will have a bag liner and then everything will be shoved into that, with their own dry bags potentially.

I've not used my new pack enough to fully judge it, as it's not been used for more than a week hike so far, but the AntiGravity system in that week was really nice. It improves the ventilation on my back and makes it feel nicer to carry.  The whole revamped hip belt and back panel are just lovely.  The model I had before this didn't even have the zip pouches on the belt!

Bare in mind, all of this might change when I get out there.

Gear List Part 1: Electronics

I will eventually cover most of the gear I plan to take to the trail, but first let's start with the fun tech I'll be taking.  There are three main things I'll have.  I'll have my phone, my watch and my head torch; and then a bunch of charging stuff.  I might take some other extra goodies but those are less certain, more on them when we get to them.

Phone
I have the Land Rover Explore phone, and I'm loving it so far.  It's got some serious credentials in keeping itself working but isn't too special on the electronics side.  I'll be taking it with its Adventure Pack so I have a better GPS and even more battery life on it.  The addon pack adds 3620mAh of charge plus giving it a GPS comparable to things like the Garmin InReach, whilst still be highly water resistant which is super handy for if I get caught in a storm or drop it in a puddle or stream.  It's able to handle harsh temps should that ever be an issue, and dropping it which might be an issue.
This will be my connection to home and primary map system.  Thanks to Guthooks' wonderful app, and Viewranger's premium USA maps, I should have no doubt about where I am on the trail and also know what's coming up ahead through other hikers' comments on Guthooks.
The phone, with adventure pack, is a little hefty though, but I think it's worth the weight for me.

Watch
I have a Garmin Fenix 5X.  It's been my everyday watch since I bought it, most of a year ago.  It has all sorts of fancy features such as measuring my pulse and estimating how many calories I've burnt.  It also has some maps powered through Garmin's mapping.  I'll be using it to track me with its built in GPS, which isn't quite as good as my phone's but is usable enough.  When paired with my phone via bluetooth, my activity will be uploaded online to Garmin's servers, where it can be watched and followed by other people who care about me.  It's more for peace of mind for some back home than a required item, but I've grown to love all of its fancy features even if it is - as my girlfriend pointed out - just a fancy expensive fitbit.
It is water resistant too, so I could go swimming with it and my phone if I really wanted to; and it is also fairly durable so it shouldn't get scratched or beaten up.

Headtorch
Why do I need a headtorch?  Well it makes camping easier, as I'll be able to see what I'm doing in the evenings.  It will also let me hike from earlier until later without limiting me to sunlight hours which might be nice in the hotter days.  Hiking in a summer afternoon isn't always fun.  I'm using the Petzyl Reactik+, which is a rather bright torch with the fancy feature of also being able to pair to my phone so I can control precisely how bright it is and see estimated burntimes remaining.  The Reactik+ can also adjust itself automatically based on how much light it detects is being reflected back at it, so I can save battery in the brighter spots.

Battery bank
All of the electronics I'm taking are rechargeable.  In fact, I can't actually replace the batteries at all.  A fact I may come to regret....  So I am taking a beefy Anker power bank.  At 26,800 mAh it will be able to recharge my phone, watch and headtorch several times each simultaneously, before the bank runs out of juice; and they've all got fairly long runtimes anyway.  The bank has three standard USB outputs, one of which has quick charge enabled, and its own micro USB input which is also quickcharge.  This ought to keep me going for a while, though it does weigh more than half a kilo itself....
Unfortunately I do need to carry at least three cables.  One ending in a USB C type, for my phone; one ending in Garmin's connection, for my watch; and then a micro USB, for the battery bank and headtorch - so possibly two cables there?  And of course, most importantly of all, I'll need an American power plug.

Possible extras
Kindle?
I have a kindle Oasis.  It isn't really designed for the outdoors despite its claim of being waterproof.  It's water resistance is more for if it gets rained on than anything.  That said, I love reading and it charges off the same cable my headtorch does.  It will give me something to do whilst waiting for transport or before bed; and it keeps its charge for a while, so it might not be my worst idea ever.
Headphones
Simple really.  I might want headphones of some sort, possible simple in-ear headphones to connect to my phone's audio jack or possible some small bluetooth ones to connect to my phone and kindle if I want them to, without the hassle of wires.

Intro

Hello,
I'm Chris.
I'm from the UK and recently graduated from university with an MPhys, but the real world is scary.  It means getting a job and paying bills and doing grown-up things, so instead I'm going to go live in the woods for six months.

Sometime next year, around 13th of April, I am going to fly to America and attempt to hike the Appalachian Trail.  Wikipedia puts it at "About 2,200 miles (3,500 km)".  The exact length changes from year to year as the route shifts about a little, but the key points are that it goes from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine, going over several other mountains on the way.
Understatement of the century there, folks.
Snowdon and Ben Nevis would be feel at home amongst the mountains along the route; according to Bill Bryson (who managed maybe 40% of the trail) I'll climb the equivalent of several Mount Everests.  We'll see.

It takes on average five to seven months.  I'll have exactly six thanks to the B2 Tourism Visa.  That means hiking on average 12 miles a day.  That seems manageable.  Wolframalpha helpfully says this is approximately 0.08 to 1.5 times the speed of lava flow. Good to know.

So about that Visa, huh?  Well, if you just hop on a plane and fly to the USA from the UK you can get up to about 3 months of holiday time if you fill out some in-flight forms.  That would make the hike a little more difficult so instead I chose to get fill out longer forms at home, get interviewed and questioned by the Embassy, and receive a visa that lets me stay in the USA for 6 months of the year, every year for a decade.  Yikes.
(Sounds like a good excuse to hike some more of the US now that I have the visa....)
The Visa wasn't actually as hard or as scary as it seems.  The waiting times were the worst bits of it.  You fill out the DS-160, which can take a while, and then make an appointment at the Embassy.  I got one about two weeks after I filled my forms out.  The Embassy is a big scary building nice modern building with lots of glass.  A long wait and then a quick security check let me wait inside for another check of my forms.  You get sent upstairs for another wait before being called over to a booth, for another check of your paperwork before waiting again for the interview.  A nice American gentleman was my interviewer.  He asked me about myself and what my purposes were.  I had a load of extra evidence for the visa - like bank statements to show I could afford it - but he didn't want any of that, he just wanted a nice chat about hiking.  And that was that.
Now I have a shiny new passport with a shiny new visa in it.

And now?
Now I wait for Spring 2019 and resist the urge to buy more gear.
Gear list to follow.